Lomo en Manteca, literally translating to “pork loin in lard,” is a quintessential cured meat dish originating from the Andalusian regions of Málaga and Cádiz in southern Spain. This humble dish boasts a rich history and a simple, yet incredibly flavourful profile.
Understanding the Essence:
At its core, lomo en manteca is pork loin simmered and then preserved in seasoned manteca (pork fat). The loins of pork are typically simmered in manteca Iberica with dried red peppers, dried wild oregano, garlic, and salt. This process imbues the meat with a deep, savoury flavour and a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Once cooked, the pork meat is either sliced or kept whole then covered with the liquid manteca to preserve it. Every pocket of air is filled with the luscious orange (the colour comes form the dried red peppers) manteca, thus eliminating any oxygen. The addition of the word IBERICA alongside manteca means that the fat used is from the Iberian pig. This is the pig that lives on a diet of Omega 3 infused acorns. This is, believe it or not, a healthy and sought after fat.
A Culinary Heritage:
Lomo en Manteca is more than just a dish; it’s a testament to the resourcefulness of the Andalusian people. Traditionally, pigs were a vital source of sustenance, and every part of the animal was utilized. Lard, a shelf-stable fat, served as a natural preservative, allowing families to store meat for long periods. The same technique is used for preserving cooked tuna too. Traditionally, before the arrival of refrigeration, tuna and pork were stored in clay pots/amphors, submerged in manteca.
During cooking, bits of pork fall off the loin and land at the bottom of the pan. They are scraped up and put into a dish, then covered with manteca to give you manteca colorá. This is the traditional local breakfast when spread on a large slice of toasted country bread. Divine!
A Versatile Delight:
Lomo en Manteca is incredibly versatile. It can be enjoyed sliced thin on its own, often served with crusty bread for scooping up the flavorful rendered fat. It’s also a popular tapa, a small savoury dish perfect for sharing. The meat can also be diced and added to stews or used to flavour soups, adding a rich depth of porky goodness. Lomo en Manteca croquetas are sensational. I’ve even had the pleasure of enjoying Lomo en Manteca ice cream.
The Importance of Lomo en Manteca to Vejer:
It’s hard to put into a few words just how important this dish is to the people of Vejer. No wedding, communion nor any other special day can be celebrated without the presence of Lomo en Manteca appearing in some form. Since 2015, Vejeriegos even celebrate their beloved dish with an International Day of Lomo en Manteca:
Normally one Sunday mid October, when bars and restaurants serve Lomo en Manteca tapas and the streets are lined with all the local butchers selling their delights. Thousands of kilos of Lomo en Manteca are devoured over this day. Another interesting fact is that there’s even a little street in Vejer called Callejon de Lomo en Manteca. I would love that address. Sergio Ramos even once swapped his shirt for a packet of Lomo en Manteca
He knows his stuff.
Making it at Home:
While Lomo en Manteca is readily available in Spain, adventurous foodies can try their hand at making it at home. Several recipes exist online, some calling for variations like adding a touch of wine vinegar for a tangy twist.
A Culinary Adventure Awaits:
Lomo en Manteca is a delicious and affordable way to explore the rich culinary heritage of Andalusia. So, next time you’re looking for a unique and delicious treat, be sure to seek out this traditional Spanish delight for breakfast, in a sandwich or for me, at a tapas bar alongside a copa of Sherry, preferably Oloroso or Fino. Great with beer too.
With greatful thanks to my teachers of all preserved porky delights and photographs too – Paco, Dani & Manuel at Carniceria Paco Melro, C/Juan Relinque 22, in Vejer de la Frontera
